When you put it away.....

Discussion in 'Automotive' started by billybob, Oct 7, 2003.

  1. billybob

    billybob
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    The Schooner, the better.

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    What do you do????

    I dont have the luxury of a heated garage..... What are some precautions I should take??? As in fluid levels and stuff???

    What are some helpful tips to make my car not run like ass in april???
     
  2. Eisenflower

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    *Keep all fluids topped up so there is no collection of condensation.
    *Add a good fuel stabilizer to your gas
    *keep the car on jack stands so you don't flat spot your tires unless u have junk rims and tires to mount for storage
    *remove the battery and keep it in the house
    *change your oil before you store it
    *If your car is not in a heated area, do not start the car up through the winter (some people think this is good to do, It's not) Crank it up once come spring time when your ready to take it out. Cold/dry starts are bad enough as is, why do it more then you have to?
     
  3. billybob

    billybob
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    The Schooner, the better.

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    thanks.... anything else I should know???
     
  4. Boots

    www.reality-check.ca

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    Steve covered it all... except to buy lots of parts for it while she's away :lol:
     
  5. Redshift

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    There is some debate over whether or not putting the car on jackstands is a good idea, but other then that, Steve is dead on.
     
  6. Eisenflower

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    Dave is right, there definately is some debate on wheather or not leaving the car sit on jackstands is a good idea or not. It depends which advise you listen to. Some will tell you it's bad to use jackstands since the suspension would be left un-compressed for months on end, or some will tell you it's a bad thing to leave it sitting, compressed without using jackstands.

    I have and will leave my car sitting on the ground without stands on my spare wheels and tires. They will flatspot by doing this like I stated above, however that's not an issue with me since they are my old spares. It's completely up to you which choice you make. There is no right/wrong way to do it, personal preferance comes into par in this scenario pretty much.

    Aside from that, enjoy your beater for 6 months :D
     
  7. billybob

    billybob
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    The Schooner, the better.

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    good advice. My civic will be tucked beside a shed with a tarp over it. :(

    Its funny because my winter beater is worth like 5 times more than my car.

    I just don't want to plow snow all winter!!
     
  8. Redshift

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  9. bluenosersx

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    i can't say i do much

    i have a heated garage so i put it in there after a good wash and put a car cover over it and (as they say not to do it) i still start the car usually once every 5 or 6 weeks and let it run for 10 mins or so and let everything run for a bit so nothing can cease (spelling?) and drive it in reverse then forward in my garage a few times to move the tires around so there aren't any flat spots, haven't had a prob doing this so far.
     
  10. Redshift

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    The word you're going for is seize. :)

    And nothing will seize. Just leave it alone and stop starting it! You are doing more long-term harm then good.

    When the car is idling like that, all you are doing is contaminating the oil, as well as washing the protective layer that exists off of the cylinder walls.

    The moisture and other impurities created by combustion are largely cooked off by hot oil. However, idling your car will not get the oil suffeciantly hot enough to do that. So, by starting your car, all you are doing is building up these impurities in your oil. These impurities are the reason you should change your oil before you store the car. So, starting and running the car completely defeats the purpose of the oil change.


    As for the seizing, have you ever looked at oil? It sticks to everything.. thus all the trouble with cleaning up spills. Those engine internals, with a good coat of oil on them, are no more likely to seize after 6 months then they are after 6 weeks.

    Also, as Steve stated above, you are subjecting your engine to multiple oil-starved cold starts instead of 1.

    Sure, you might not have had a problem doing it yet, but do you honestly think that EVERY published guide on storing a vehicle is wrong just because you haven't hurt yours yet?
     
  11. Boots

    www.reality-check.ca

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    Starting your car up while it's sitting there can also leave water in your exhaust which can lead to rust.
     
  12. Eisenflower

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    Maybe I missed something, however I found this from another message board. Maybe it will be helpful to you.

    ------------------------

    "It’s that time of year where many of us store our cars over the winter months to save them from the corrosive salt used by the road crews. I thought I’d create a write up on a step-by-step procedure for safely storing your car and to make getting your car back on the road trouble free.

    Disclaimer – Much of the info is taken straight from the Owners Manual, other info is taken from tips I’ve picked up over the years through various forums. I am not responsible for anything that happens to you or your car.

    The steps listed are written in a step-by-step format that when finished, the car will be in your garage, ready for the winter months. If you are storing the car in a remote location, like a self storage unit, you will obviously have to re-number some steps. Ok, here we go!

    1.Purchase a gas stabilizer of some sort, I use Sta-Bil as it is the most readily available. As we all know, gas goes bad after a couple of months and can leave gummy deposits in your fuel system, the gas stabilizer will keep the gas fresh and prevent the deposits from forming.

    2.Wait until your car has about 1/4 to 1/8 of a tank of gas left in it, stop by the gas station and put in the Sta-Bil according to the instructions. Then fill the tank, all the way full. Why you might ask? You want a full tank of fuel to keep condensation from forming in the gas tank. Water in the gas tank is bad. Drive around for 5 to 10 minutes to get the Sta-Bil through your entire fuel system, then drive home.

    3.Change the oil and filter. Oil contains all the by products from combustion and these by products are acidic, so you want the cleanest oil as possible in the engine.

    4.With the oil changed, thoroughly clean the inside and outside of the car. Hand wash, wax, vacuum, armor all, the whole nine yards. I’m not going to go into any more detail on this because most of us are fanatics in this area already. If cleaning tips are needed, there’s a ton of info out there.

    5.This next step has a couple of options. The owners manual wants you to put the car up on jack stands for any extended period of storing. The only benefit I see of this is the prevention of flat spots forming on the tires. Though I doubt 3 or 4 months of storage will cause any permanent damage to the tires, I have low profile tires on custom wheels and I don’t feel like taking that chance, so if jack stands aren’t convenient for you, this is what I suggest. Use a set of old wheels and tires on the car for storage and store the custom rims separately. This will allow you to move the car if you need to and will save your expensive tires. This is also a good time to clean all the brake dust and road debris from the rims and brake components, and to throw a coat of wax on rims (if applicable). To properly store the custom wheels, lay the first tire on a piece of cardboard so it isn’t in contact with the cement then stack the remainder of the wheels on top with a layer of old rags or newspaper in between. Note: If you have no other spare wheels to use, and don't have any jackstands, then at least put cardboard or carpet between your tires and the concrete.


    6.The car should now be in the garage either on jack stands, or on crap wheels. Crack you driver and passenger windows a 1/2 inch or so for breathing purposes. This only applies if you are storing the car indoors.

    7.Leave the Parking Brake OFF.

    8.Put the transmission in Reverse. (or Park if it’s an Automatic)

    9.Block the rear wheels if not on jackstands.

    10.Put a towel in between the windshield wipers and the glass, this will keep the rubber from sticking to the glass.

    11.Pop the hood and disconnect the battery. When closing the hood, just latch the hood, but don’t close it completely, this just makes it easier to access later.

    12.(Optional Step) Apply a small amount of armor all or silicone lube on the door weather stripping to prevent them sticking on the paint.

    13.Cover the car with a quality car cover, cover per the instructions.

    14.Once a month, connect the battery and run the car for 5 to 10 minutes with the heat turned to full and the main defroster on. This will keep everything lubed and maintained, including the A/C compressor, to make taking it out of storage easier. Don’t be a dumb ass, be sure to open the garage door and remember to disconnect the battery when you’re done.

    15.When spring arrives, slap on the nice wheels, back the car out and let it idle for a few minutes. Then take a test drive. I like to baby the car for the first week or so just to make sure everything’s ok before taking it into the upper RPM’s. "
     
  13. Banned/Deleted User

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    Last year I left my teg on its 17's, started it up once a month (except when I was moving it and had it out) and it was fine.. Had flat spots in the tires that went away as soon as the tires warmed up..
     
  14. Eisenflower

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    Please don't give maintenance tips finee, you'll mislead others down your dark path of neglect :rofl:
     
  15. Banned/Deleted User

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    hahaha, it was fine.. But Ive had it out several times over the winter so it never sat for more then 2 months I dont think :lol:
     

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