Discussion in 'Reality Check' started by A~Photography, Feb 12, 2009.
Thanks for the help I'll try to fix my problems and reshoot...
I ran into the same thing with a makeshift back drop -- seams. I learned to ball them up and keep them in a bag, unfolded.
And am I noticing the shots all seem OOF?
yeah i just got the msulins they have lots of seams lol im trying to get them out...
as for OOF yes they are thats the question i asked? it seems i missed focus but im nopt sure why? they looked good on screen.. i could tell the ones that were OOF
Along with being soft they all look underexposed to me too. Not sure how much I can rely on my laptop monitor though.
Resist the urge to put the tub right against the backdrop. Move it away from it - closer to the camera. When you do that, you'll eliminate those shadows. You could also put your lights up higher so the point down more. That'll put the shadows down lower, maybe out of sight.
yeah getson i realized i was a little too close to the drop i was in a small room and crammed right back as far as i could go to take the pics im gonna let my wood stove die out some tomorrow and try it in there.. I'm just wondering how or what i can do or did to make the picture in focus i tried using one focus point then even tried using all of them...
i never thought about the lights up higher i dropped them lower for this ii'll try that too next time. should i focus on his face or the tub?? and maybe use a larger aperture of more than 5??
I would definitely focus on his face, afterall it's him you're taking the picture of not the tub right?
Also, what was your shutter speed on these?
The first shot looks like it has some motion blur. The second one looks like your son is in focus, but maybe a smaller aperture would have suited the shot better (more like #4) so that the tub and stuff in front of it is in focus as well.
Ditto on what the others have said. They do look underexposed on my screen as well. Get him further from the background and don't fold your muslins!
I like #4 best of this set. Post more pictures when you try it again.
Your shutter speed is waaaaaaaaaaaaaay too slow! You shot these at 1/2 sec, 1/30 sec and 1/8 sec.
Put your camera in manual.
Set shutter at 1/125
adjust aperture for the look you want.....if you can't get wide enough, change your iso
I think you're still missing the relation between the 3.
ok tanya thank you
i havent really been in manual yet AV mostly TV with ladscape stuff
maybe i'll try manual tomorrow and see how it goes...
I think you're still missing the relation between the 3.[/QUOTE]
i think your right i have read understanding exposure about 5 times lol guess i'll read it 5 more and then practice till i get it
Thanks for your imput everyone i appreciate it will try again tomorrow or sunday
and i haven't folded them lol there still wrinkled from the packaging they came in LOL any tips to unwrinkle them??
Camera shake makes baby jesus cry.
I hope this helps:
Shutter speed is how long the sensor is exposed to light.
Aperture controls the size of the hole in the lens that lets light hit the sensor. It also impacts how much of the image is in focus.
A smaller aperture (smaller hole in the lens) lets less light in and the shutter needs to be open longer to make the image. A smaller aperture gets more in focus. A wider aperture allows more light in, and make less stuff in focus.
Small aperture = F22
Large aperture = F1.8
In AV Mode, as you adjust your aperture you will see the camera compensate for the lower light by using longer shutter speeds. Fine if you're controlling depth of focus. Not fine if you need to maintain a shutter speed.
In TV mode, you'll see the aperture bounce around to adjust the amount of light entering the camera for your selected shutter speed. Fine if you're controlling motion blur or motion effect. Not fine if you're trying to control depth of focus.
ISO controls how sensitive your camera is to the light hitting the sensor. Shutter and Aperture control how much light hits the sensor.
Low ISO: 100 (less sensitive to light)
High ISO: 1600+ (more sensitive to light)
If ISO 100 is not sensitive enough for the amount of light getting into the camera, you have three options:
Increase the Aperture size (lower F number) to let more light in.
Lower the shutter speed until it is open long enough for the exposure.
When you increase the ISO, the sensor is more sensitive to the same amount of light that the aperture size and shutter speed was allowing to hit it.
Shutter speed controls both camera shake and motion blur. Faster shutter = less blur.
Shutter speed has little to do with flash. Remember, the flash only lasts a few milliseconds. The size of the hole in your lens (aperture) dictates how much light from the flash reaches the sensor.
Camera Shake is when the end of the lens moves during the exposure. It's easy to tell when you have nothing in focus.
To counteract camera shake, your shutter speed should be one divided by the focal length. At 50mm, about 1/50 second or faster. At 300mm about 1/300 or faster. You can get away with lower shutter speeds on camera's with image stabilization. When tripod mounted, camera shake *should* be taken care of by a sturdy tripod. If you've got a wicked steady hand, it can be lower. General rule. It can be broken by super human powers.
If you find the subject is blurred at 1/focal length it's because the shutter is open while the subject has moved. Increase your shutter speed and compensate by enlarging your aperture. If you're at the widest aperture, you have to increase ISO to compensate for the faster shutter speed.
Baby jesus doesn't want to cry any more. Help baby jesus.
There are caveats to that.. but that's how exposure works.
There's a water hose and bucket analogy, but I'm outta time.
haha yeah i figured as much LOL
i meant how to store it without getting more wrinkles??
dude i have given her so many analogies so many times.
i know you have I'm trying to grasp and try to get there... remember iv had NO education on any photography stuff up till what a few months ago!!
i should a been writing it down when you told me cuz it seems like i need to SEE it a few times to remember it. I've found reading the book has helped.. it sounds like i should be breaking out into manual to REALLY grasp it i don't move outta av much..
sorry again for asking so many questions? i don't want to be a nuisance to anyone
what the heck does that have to do with all the tea in china?
asking questions is NOT the problem. it's asking the exact same ones over and over, while not really appearing to be taking anything in that people have tried to help you with(not just me)
I wish you success and luck....
i know it seems that way but i am Trying and i am listening.. ive said that..
im sorry you and anyone else feels that way....
I ball mine up and stuff them in a bag like The Green Bastard said that he does. When you ball it up instead of folding it, it still gets wrinkles but they're smaller and less uniform. If you move your subject out from the background you can blur the smaller wrinkles so that they aren't noticable. Also if the client you're photographing doesn't mind, you could try chucking it in the dryer on heat for a few minutes while you're setting up. It does help a little bit. Handheld steamers are supposed to be good for wrinkle removal after you've got your backdrop on the stand, but I haven't tried it.
I picked up some seamless paper and I don't think I'll be going back to muslin unless I need to photograph something bigger than my seamless.
I probably skimmed over it your replies. Figured another shot might help.
It took a while for me too.. one day it just clicked. I think it was the water bucket analogy that made ti click. I used that analogy for a beginners course I was teaching in the fall.
I would really like her to get it before there's C&C... I mean, the very foundation of the photograph isn't working, backgrounds, subject matter... camera shake killed it and any useful C&C. A photog could have the best subject, best gear, the best backdrops, lenses. Still have to understand what it does for them.
We've probably all talked to someone who wants the 70-200 2.8IS. If they dont' have a good answer for the question "Why?" then they don't need that lens.
Carry on A... You're gonna get it. It'll click. There is no spoon... or something like that.
Thank you I'm going to try
that's what i'm sayin dude. i have tried the water and bucket one, i've tried the tap one etc. I just wish i could help her make it stick...i dunno.
keep plugging away at it i guess.but remember that gear etc will only make this more frustrating until you understand the fundamentals.
Get into manual. I skipped Av and Tv mode almost completely. Maybe after two weeks of having my camera. That will help you to grasp it much quicker if you have to control your ISO, aperture, and shutter speed. Make your mistakes until you figure out your properly exposed image.
I asked a lot of questions in the past too (Thanks everyone for tips, help, etc, and thanks to Mosher for showing me how to balance the whites in post processing. It's something I do as part of post processing, almost automatically now.)
I was suggested to read a book when I took the two photography courses a few years back. It's The Basic Book of Photography, by Tom and Michelle Grimm. It was, and occasionally is still a valuable resource to me. I picked it up at Coles for about $30.
It's $20 now.
Thank you everyone i feel so stupid that i can get it to CLICK the thing that tracker posted seems to be helping i tried a bit in manual last night and am gonna try it again today with my littel guy.. this is gonn asound bad but i cant really remember the water bucket and tap annologies does anyone know where i could find it again on the net like i said before maybe seeing it in front of me I printed off what tracker wrote yesterday i started a photography binder so i can find and print important stuff and put it in theer like a quick reference guide...
Thank you again EVERYONE you guys have all been great
Looks like that blogger covered it.
thansk for the book idea i ordered it though amazon was 14.63 plus shipping so got it for 23 all included...
A~ I'm learning through your questions as well so keep asking away. Those who want to answer the questions will, and those who are getting frustrated with your questions should simply scroll by.
Something that helped me is staying in Manual and then shooting the same scene in a series of images by only changing one variable. Then take the same shots but change a different one etc.
Set camera to manual
Set shutter speed to 125
Set ISO to 200
Start aperture at F2.8
Take a series of shot with only changing the aperture all the way through the aperture range.
Repeat the process but this time only change another setting like shutter speed.
Take these series of images and then study what is happening in each image and try to determine why it comes out that way. Of course only a few of the images will be exposed correctly but its more the learning of why.
You'll start to then see how each setting affects the outcome. The big one for me was the aperture. It not only affects the area of focus but also the ambient light in an image.